Crt Royale At 4k

Collection of commonly used Cg shaders. These shaders are usable by either HLSL and/or Cg runtime compilers. The cg2glsl script will translate most of these into GLSL shaders. libretro/common-shaders. Hello, I found these wonderful settings for crt-royale that really give it an awesome vibe. It creates more of the RGB BVM style monitor look. They really take crt-royale in a different direction giving it the higher end RGB BVM style. All shots are integer scaling on. Thanks to Kurozumi for posting the settings. Thanks TroggleMonkey for his amazing work on this shader. Make sure to click to. Minimum hardware requirements for CRT-Royale? The Raspberry pi 3B+ can't really handle shaders beyond the basic, are there any similar products that could? Looking into odroid, possibly LattePanda (although that gets pretty expensive). Minimum hardware requirements for CRT-Royale? Posted by 1 year ago. Alternatively you can root the fairly powerful firestick 4k pretty easily though all the i/o is through micro usb except its hdmi of course. Sorry I am not super tech savvy just throwing these ideas out there. Level 1-1 points 1 year ago. @timon912 i think it depends on what you're running. Most people here will be running on raspberry pis where you're limited to only really the crt-pi and zfast shaders, which don't have the complexity of some of the crt shaders but are very fast. That said, i wouldn't use a CRT shader for GBA - it didn't run on a CRT, but LCD:) there's a fast LCD shader here, though i've not tried it: https.

1. Crt Royale At 4k Ultra
2. Crt Royale 4k Settings
3. Crt Royale Kurozumi 4k
4. 4k Crt Tv
5. Crt Royale At 4k Blu-ray Player

Many of these replicate aperture grille CRTs, which have sharp images and strong scanlines. If you find that this doesn't look a damn thing like your old TV, it's probably because you owned a shadow-mask (Slot mask or dot mask) style CRT, which has less noticeable scan lines. The easiest way to tell the difference is to feel the curve of the screen; aperture grilles only curve horizontally if at all, or look at the left and right sides of the glass against the frame. If those sides are curved, it's a shadow mask. If they're straight, it's an aperture grille. Old TVs usually had slot masks, whereas monitors usually had dot masks. Unfortunately, shadow masks require resolutions of upwards of 4K UHD to emulate accurately with no downsampling of the phosphor grid, so all we have for the time being are aperture grille shaders for current display resolutions.

Use integer scaling. This means either using windowed mode (x2,x3,x4) or setting an integer scaling option in the video options. The reason is that non-integer scaled scanlines will result in uneven lines with artifacts, though some shaders use oversampling to try to avoid this.

• 2Types
• 3Future

Download[edit]

Types[edit]

CRT-Geom[edit]

Main article: CRT Geom

Simulates an aperture grille display (with the dot mask enabled). Very versatile and modifiable. One of the first popular CRT shaders. Visit the main article for more details.

CRT-Calagari[edit]

An older CRT shader similar to CRT-Geom but uses different methods to achieve its effects.

CRT-Easymode[edit]

A flat CRT shader whose settings are easier to understand. Similar to CRT-Geom in its effects.

CRT-Hyllian[edit]

Aims only for picture quality, so it avoids things that degrade the image just for accuracy. It, however, uses far less power to run, so it is possible to run this shader on lower end systems than CRT-Geom.

Another version, crt-hyllian-lq.cg is specifically aimed at even lower end systems.

CRT-Lottes[edit]

A newer CRT shader that uses a horizontal shadow mask pattern with blooming. The horizontal pattern works quite well at current resolutions, though it isn't entirely accurate to a true vertical slot mask pattern.

GTU[edit]

A CRT shader that focuses more on simulating blur and blending effects and color levels of CRT screens rather than the physical attributes like phosphors and curvature. Highly configurable, can be really sharp, or really blurry or anywhere in between, with optional scanlines and contrast and gamma settings. Settings are stored in a separate 'config.h' file for easy editing. GTU-Famicom is a variant that takes an image from an NES with 'raw' colors and processes it to output an NTSC image much like an actual NES PPU.

The test program is a program that can adjust various attributes, such as horizontal and vertical blur, scanlines, etc. It is useful for testing settings to use with the shader, and also to understand how CRT shaders work in general.

CRT-Royale[edit]

Main article: CRT-Royale

A highly advanced multi-pass CRT shader that simulates almost every aspect of the CRT screen. There are tons of parameters to configure, such as phosphor type (aperture grille, slot mask, and EDP shadow mask) and size (i.e. dot pitch), convergence offests, scanline blooming and many others. Higher resolution is better for this shader, especially with EDP shadow mask phosphor layout and with smaller phosphor dot pitch values. This shader is really complicated compared to most other CRT shaders, reading the README and the documentation in the user-settings.h is a must.

CRT-Royale-Kurozumi[edit]

A preconfigured CRT-Royale made to look like a professional CRT monitor, specifically Sony's PVM/BVM line of monitors.

Future[edit]

Shadow Mask Phosphor Emulation[edit]

Hypothetical shadow mask phosphor shaders such as PhosphorLUT and CRT-Royale are being developed. Due to the nature of the shadow mask screen, 4K resolution is likely needed to avoid significant downsampling of the phosphors.

External Links[edit]

• More CRT Shaders (filthypants.blogspot.com) - hunterk's comparison of current CRT shaders.

Hasegawa 1/48 scale conversion
Post-Kahu A-4K Skyhawk

by Anthony Papadis

Hobbycraft's 1/48 scale A-4E Skyhawk is available online from Squadron.com

The A-4 Skyhawk is an aircraft that almost needs no introduction.

Designed by ‘Ed' Heinemann, the aircraft was affectionately referred to as ‘Heinemann's Hotrod' and the ‘Bantam Bomber' due to its spritely performance and diminutive size. The aircraft has seen conflict in several theatres, including Vietnam, The Middle East and the Falkland Islands, and has served the in numerous armed forced across the globe.
My model depicts a Royal New Zealand Air Force (RNZAF) A-4K 'Kahu', and is painted in the overall green, the final scheme these aircraft wore before they were retired. The aircraft depicted is NZ6201, which was involved in a potentially fatal incident.
On the 20th March 2001, this aircraft struck a 110,000Volt power line whilst on a low –level navigation exercise. The collision almost tore the fin tip completely off.

Fortunately, the pilot was able to safely recover the aircraft to RNZAF Base Woodbourne, which was nearby. The fin tip was still hanging by a few threads on the starboard side!

This kit is the Hobbycraft 1/48 A-4E/F 'Aggressor'. The Hasegawa kit surpasses the Hobbycraft kit in both detail and ease of conversion to A-4K, however I have used this kit as it was bought for a very modest sum thanks to a swap and sell at the local model club.
Whilst the Hasegawa A-4E/F kit contains just about everything you need to build a 'Kahu', the Hobbycraft kit has several deficiencies which I will outline below. Although the list may seem extensive, the majority of the items listed were fashioned from common modelling items and each took no longer than a few minutes to add or correct.
My changes/additions included:

• Improving the rear cockpit shelf behind the seat

• Adding a pilot, whose head was re-positioned and oxy hose added

• Hud glass

• Adding the VOR antennas to the fin

• Adding the rear ECM antennas

• Adding the strobe light to the upper fuselage

• Replacing all blade aerials with plastic card

• Re-positioning the Nav beacon from the lower left undercarriage fairing to the right fairing

• Adding the wingtip ECM antennas

• Adding the underside wingtip lights

• Adding the wingtip navigation lights

• Detailing the brake parachute opening mechanism

• Adding the pylon sway braces

The kit instructions are brief, which posed no problems. Construction is both straight-forward and brief.
Starting with the cockpit, a few additional details were added. The 'Kahu' was upgraded substantially in comparison to the original A-4E. They were fitted with an APG-66 radar, which is what is fitted to the F-16. The instrument panel also differs greatly in that it has two Cathode Ray Tubes (CRT's) ‘TV' screens. I decided that since this was to be a canopy down kit in a flying pose, the extra effort involved in making the new panel would be wasted as it would not be seen. This would also be true of the area behind the seat as it turns out as the canopy framing obscures this area as well!

The addition of the VOR antennas either side of the fin completed work on the tail.

At this point I returned to the wings. I glued all the pylons to the wings and ran a bead of Mr Surfacer 500 around them. Once dry a cotton bud soaked in methylated spirits was used to clean off most of the Mr Surfacer and fill any small gaps.
NZ6201 was carrying an empty AIM-9 rail and centreline drop tank on the flight of 20 March. I decided to add a little interest to the lower fuselage by adding the pylon sway braces and the ejector pistons to each pylon.

I used a rotary tool to open some holes in the base of the pylons. To this was added some plastic strip and some discs using a punch and die set. I also added the electrical ‘umbilical' to the rear of each pylon using some fine copper wire.

I made the pylon sway braces from some soft drink can aluminium and plastic discs punched out with a punch and die set.

Construction was rapidly nearing an end. I masked the canopy and primed the model to inspect it for any flaws or blemishes. Satisfied, I moved onto the painting.

Painting

I sprayed a coat of Testors FS 34709 overall to begin with. My references showed that the aircraft exhibited a very starkly weathered airframe resulting in a ‘patchwork effect. I lightened the dark green with some white and a dash of yellow and sprayed the masked off panels with the new shade. The result looked a little too stark so I softened the effect by spraying a darker shade freehand along the panel lines. I didn't want to blend the border though, merely to soften the colour transition a little.
The radome was masked and sprayed black at this point.
My references stated that this aircraft featured a port aileron, nose gear door and starboard slat in the previous 'Euro I' grey scheme that the overall green scheme replaced. My references were not conclusive about the nose gear door or aileron, so I painted them 'Euro I' scheme. I did have however a front on shot taken on the day of the incident. I was not convinced that the slat was in the old scheme so this was painted in the ‘faded' green.

I also picked out various wing access panels in a faded green to add interest, but not based on any evidence whatsoever!
Th model was then given a gloss coat in preparation for decals.

Decals

I used the Gekko Graphics sheet on this kit. These decals are superbly printed and performed flawlessly. I experienced some minor silvering, however that was due entirely to poor surface preparation on my part. The sheet allows you to build up to six machines and is thoroughly researched, and even includes conversion notes pertaining to the Hasegawa kit.

Crt Royale At 4k Ultra

I was initially concerned that since these decals were designed to fit the Hasegawa kit,
I might have problems with the wing walkways.

My concerns were unfounded as they fit the kit beautifully.

I did have to apply several applications of Microsol to the outboard walkway decals in order to get them to conform to the many small vortex generators. Eventually, after about eight applications I was happy !

Weathering

Now for the fun part!
I applied a dark brown wash to the panel lines. This was then removed with a cotton bud. Several streaks were added ranging in colour from black to reddish brown. Once satisfied, I gave the kit a coat of matt varnish. I now used powdered pastels to apply small graphite streaks behind control surfaces and the vortex generators at the wing tips. I applied black pastel to the area around the cannon ports as well as streaking back from the shell ejector ports. Another matt coat was applied to seal the pastels.

Crt Royale 4k Settings

It was now time to remove all the canopy and radome masking and add all the delicate bits. The fuselage centreline tank was atached as was the AIM-9 rail. The lower rotating beacon was added as were all the pylon sway braces. I also glued the clear wingtip lights into their previously drilled holes. The lights were made from clear sprue. The upper beacon (red) and the High Intensity Strobe Light (HISL) was added. This was made from clear sprue suitable sanded to shape then dipped in Future. The little probe in front of the windshield and fin tip was was glued in place with a small electrical cable added to add interest ( I don't think there are actually any cables here in real life!)
He model is mounted on a 10mm acrylic rod that is inserted into a perspex back plate, which in turn is screwed into a Jarrah base. The rod is ‘keyed' to fit into the exhaust which has plastic strips glued inside to receive the rod.

Crt Royale Kurozumi 4k

4k Crt Tv

The Hobbycraft kit builds quickly and easily into a fine replica of the Skyhawk. I still have several RNZAF Skyhawks to build, and I will be using the Hasegawa kits as there is much less manufacturing required. Having said that, the majority of the additions were easily accomplished and apart from the decals and pilot figure (Hasegawa), which was taken from the spares box, I used no after market detail sets which I found very satisfying.
I would like to thank the following for their assistance. They helped provide very useful reference material to complete this project.

Crt Royale At 4k Blu-ray Player

• Richard Chafer (Gekko Graphics)

• Darren Mottram (Motty's Photo's)
  

Click the thumbnails below to view larger images:

Model, Images and Text Copyright © 2004 by Anthony Papadis
Page Created 23 September, 2004
Last Updated 24 December, 2007

Back to HyperScale Main Page